Umlando wokufakwa umbala kwezinwele unezimpande zakudala kakhulu. Kuyaziwa nakanjani ukuthi e-Asiriya nasePheresiya kuphela abacebile nabanobuhle ababedonsa izinwele nezinwele zabo. Ngemuva kwesikhashana, amaRoma amukela lo mkhuba komakhelwane bawo basempumalanga, futhi isithunzi sezinwele esacishe sachitheka sasibhekwa njengesithandwa kakhulu. Sifinyelele zokupheka zokucwayiza izinwele emisebenzini yosaziwayo Udokotela waseRoma uGalen. Kuyathakazelisa ukuthi, ngokusho kwalezi zindlela zokupheka, kunconywa izinwele ezimpunga ukuba zidwetshwe ngaphezulu umhluzi we-walnut.
"Akunandaba ukuthi amaRoma alwe kangakanani nabasizi, nokho abesifazane basempumalanga yibona ababejwayelekile baseRoma!"
Kepha ama-Middle Ages awazange asilethe nakancane ngemizamo yabesifazane yokuziguqula ngokudaya izinwele. Lokhu kuyaqondakala, ngoba ngalezozinsuku kwakulawulwa isimilo esinesihluku nemibono eyinqayizivele mayelana nobumsulwa besifazane.
Ngesikhathi se-Renaissance, izindlela zokupheka zakudala zaphila, futhi futhi abesifazane bangasebenzisa izindlela zemvelo ukunakekelwa komuntu siqu. AmaBlondes abhekane nenye inkathi yokuthandwa.
I-heyday ye-alchemy ishiye uphawu lwayo ezicini zezimonyo zabesifazane. Ngakho-ke, encwadini ka-Giovanni Marinelli we-alchemist odumile, izindlela zokupheka zokulungiselela izimonyo zigcwele imfihlakalo enjalo yokuthi akekho owesimame wanamuhla ongalokotha athinte isixazululo esilungiselelwe ngomunwe ngomunwe.
Kamuva, lapho umbala obomvu uqalile, abesifazane abanamandla amahle bathatha izintende zokudaya izinwele. Kwakuthandwa kakhulu henna - amaqabunga omisiwe namagxolo esihlahlana saseLawson. Nge-henna, ungathola izithunzi kusuka ku-karoti kuya ethusi. Ukungeza i-indigo, i-walnut, noma i-chamomile ku-henna kukhiqize ama-shades ahlukahlukene. I-Indigophera yatholakala emaqabunga esihlahla basmu. Ngokungangabazeki, ngalezo zinsuku, abesifazane abahloniphekile bebengasakwazi ukudaya izinwele zabo ngokukhanya, futhi imfashini yaguquka kancane kancane.
Ikhulu leshumi nesishiyagalolunye leminyaka lingabizwa kufanele ngokuthi izinguquko, kufaka phakathi ukwenziwa kwezimonyo. Kungaleso sikhathi lapho kwabekwa khona izisekelo zokukhiqizwa kodayi kwezinwele manje.
Ngo-1907, usokhemisi waseFrance u-Eugene Schueller wasungula udayi oqukethe usawoti wethusi, owensimbi ne-sodium sulfate. Umkhiqizo omusha onelungelo lobunikazi waqinisekisa umthengi umbala owuthandayo. Ukuze akhiqize udayi wakhe, uSchueller wasungula iFrance Society for Dyes Hair Safe. Futhi eminyakeni embalwa kamuva yaphenduka inkampani "L 'Oreal", imikhiqizo yayo yezimonyo iyaziwa.
"Ama-Paints aqukethe usawoti wensimbi asetshenziswa cishe kuze kube maphakathi nekhulu lethu leminyaka."
Okwamanje, upende onjalo awusetshenziswa kakhulu, noma ucwaningo lwesimanje lukhombisile ukuthi izinsimbi ezisindayo empeleni azithathwa ngenwele nangesikhumba. Lezi zipende zinezisombululo ezimbili: isisombululo sikasawoti wensimbi (isiliva, ithusi, i-cobalt, i-iron) kanye nesisombululo somenzeli wokwehlisa. Uma kuhlanganiswa ngopende ngokusekelwe kusawoti, ungathola umbala ozinzile, kepha ithoni ibukhali kakhulu, ingeyona eyemvelo. Futhi nokho - ngosizo lwabo ungathola amathoni amnyama kuphela.
Izinkampani zesimanje zokukhiqiza zinikeza Ukukhetha okuningi kwama-coloring agents: upende ophikelelayo, ama-shampoos amakhethini nama-balms, imikhiqizo yokuphotha izinwele.
Udayi Wezinwele eGibhithe Lasendulo
Kwaphela amakhulu amaningi eminyaka, abaseGibhithe bekhetha izinwele eziluhlaza okomnyama noma obomvu. Ngasekuqaleni kweminyaka eyi-4, u-henna, owaziwa kuze kube namuhla, waba nesandla kulokhu. Ukuguqula iphalethi, ubuhle baseGibhithe buhlanjululwe nge-henna powder nazo zonke izinhlobo zezithako ezingadala ukuhlaselwa kovalo kubantu besikhathi esikhona. Ngakho-ke, kwakusetshenziswa igazi lenkomo noma ama-tadpoles ahlangane. Izinwele, zesatshiswa ukuphathwa okungafanele okunjalo, zashintsha ngokushesha umbala. Endleleni, abaseGibhithe baba mpunga kusenesikhathi, isiphetho sofuzo lapho balwa khona ngosizo lwegazi le-buffalo noma amakati amnyama abilisiwe kawoyela, noma amaqanda ekhokho. Futhi ukuthola umbala omnyama, kwanele ukuxuba i-henna nesitshalo se-indigo. Le ndlela yokupheka isasetshenziswa ngabathandi bemibala yemvelo.
Udayi wezinwele eRoma yasendulo
Lapha, umthunzi wezinwele "wesiTitan" wawunemfashini kakhulu. Ukuze uwuthathe, amantombazane endawo asula izinwele zawo ngesiponti esigxishwe kusaka olwenziwe ngobisi lwembuzi nomlotha ngokhuni lwe-beech, futhi ngemuva kwamahora ahlala elangeni.
By the way, i-enchantress yamaRoma yayinezindlela zokupheka ezingaphezu kwekhulu zokuxuba imibala! Kwesinye isikhathi bekujwayela i-fashionista ejwayelekile yesimanje, futhi ngezinye izikhathi izithako ezimangalisa kakhulu: ama-ash, igobolondo namaqabunga e-walnut, lime, i-talc, umlotha we-beech, ama-onion husks kanye nama-leeches. Futhi labo abanenhlanhla, babenengcebo engakaze ibonwe, banqekuzisa amakhanda abo ngegolide ukudala inkohliso yezinwele ezinhle.
KwakuseRoma lapho beza nendlela yokuqala yamakhemikhali yokudaya izinwele. Ukuze kumnyama ukubonakala, amantombazane ancibilikisa ikamu eliholayo kuviniga nasesandleni. Usawoti okuholayo ozinze kuma-curls wawunomthunzi omnyama.
Udayi Wezinwele Zokuvuselela
Naphezu kokuvalwa kwesonto, amantombazane aqhubeka nokuhlola umbala wezinwele futhi, ngokufanele, ngodayi. Kwasetshenziswa zonke i-henna, izimbali ezi-gorse, i-sulfur powder, isoda, i-rhubarb, isafroni, amaqanda nezinso zamathole.
Kuholwe ekwakhiweni kwamafomula amasha wokufaka imibala, njengenjwayelo, eFrance. Ngakho-ke, uMargot Valois weza neresiphi yakhe yezinwele ezikhanyayo, okuyinto, ngeshwa, engafinyeleli kithi. Futhi kuma-curls wokudaya ngombala omnyama, abesifazane baseFrance basebenzise indlela yakudala futhi efakazelwe yamaRoma - i-lead scallop kuviniga.
Ngekhulu le-19 - isikhathi sokutholwa
Ngo-1863, kwaqanjwa into eyaziwa ngokuthi yi-paraphenylenediamine, eyayisetshenziselwa ukugcina izicubu. Ngokusekelwe kule ngxenye yamakhemikhali, amafomu wesimanje opende asungulwa.
Ngo-1867, isazi samakhemikhali esivela eLondon (E.H. Tilly), sisebenzelana nozinwele wezinwele ovela eParis (Leon Hugo), savula izinkomba ezintsha zabesifazane emhlabeni wonke, sibonisa indlela entsha yokukhanyisa izinwele nge-hydrogen peroxide.
Udayi wezinwele wekhulu lama-20
Ngubani owaziyo ukuthi yini esingakupenda manje uma kungaphumeleli uhambo lukankosikazi u-Eugene Schueller oluka izinwele zezinwele. Ukubukeka kwemicu engenampilo yomkakhe amthandayo kwaphefumulela isilingo ngobuhlakani ukudala udayi wokwenza iqukethe usawoti wethusi, i-iron ne-sodium sulfate. Esehlole upende kunkosikazi obongayo, u-Eugene waqala ukuthengisa udayi kunomphathi wezinwele obizwa ngeL'Aureale. Upende waphumelela ukuthandwa, okwenza u-Eugene akhuphule umkhiqizo, wavula inkampani yakwa-L'Oreal futhi aqhubeke nokuhlola uhlelo lombala. Yilokho uthando okwenzayo kubantu!
Udayi wezinwele kuma-20s
Upende we-L'Oreal osuvele unemincintiswano, inkampani yaseMury, ekhiqiza upende olungena shí ezinweleni, oludonsa isikhathi eside umbala futhi udwebe ngaphezulu kwezinwele ezimpunga.
I-LOalal inwebisa ubude bayo futhi ikhulule i-Imedia, upende wemvelo osuselwa ezinhlangeni zemvelo zemvelo.
EJalimane, futhi, abahlalanga phansi: indodana yomsunguli wenkampani yeWella yayinomqondo wokuhlanganisa umbala opende nombala wokunakekela. Upende waba ngaphezulu kokulondeka, okwadala isivunguvungu senjabulo phakathi kwabesifazane.
Udayi wezinwele kuma-60s
Ukuthuthukiswa kwemakethe yezimonyo kuthatha amagxathu amakhulu, izinkampani ezinkulu ezingahlangene nhlobo nezidaya zezinwele, zinquma ukujoyina ubuhlanya obujwayelekile. Ngakho-ke inkampani "Schwarzkopf" idale upende "i-Igora Royal", esesiphenduke iklasikhi langempela.
Ngasikhathi sinye, abasebenza ngamakhemikhali emhlabeni jikelele basebenza kwifomula ngaphandle kwe-hydrogen peroxide, ekwazi ukudweba izinwele ezimpunga. Kuvela izithunzi eziningi ezintsha, ezinhle zomhlaba wonke zisebenzisa udayi wezinwele ngesibindi.
Udayi wezinwele emhlabeni wanamuhla
Manje sesitholakala ngezindlela ezahlukahlukene zamafomula nodayi yemikhiqizo ehlukahlukene. Isayensi ayimile, ngakho-ke bekukhona ama-mousses, amagwebu, ama-balms, ama-shampoos apendiwe, ama-tonics. Amantombazane adaya izinwele zawo ukuze azijabulise, angesabi isimo sezinwele zawo. Izindlela ezintsha zicetshiswa ngezakhi ezizuzisayo, ama-amino acid, amaprotheni, i-keratin, kanye nezithasiselo zokudla.
Noma, naphezu kokukhethwa okubanzi kwemibala yanamuhla namafomula amnene, amantombazane amaningi akhetha udayi wemvelo futhi abuyele ezindleleni zasendulo zokufaka imibala usebenzisa i-henna ne-basma, ama-anyanisi husks kanye nama-beets!
Ukugcina umlando
Kusenempikiswano yokuthi ngubani wokuqala futhi ngonyaka wokuqala owaqala ukusebenzisa udayi wezinwele. Yimuphi umuntu wesifazane, ngokufuna ukuzishintsha, waqoqa izithako ezithile, wazihlanganisa wazifaka izinwele zakhe? cishe ngeke sazi impendulo eqondile.
Kuthiwa abesifazane basendulo baseRoma bemfashini babengabasunguli kulolu daba. Hhawu, yizindlela zokupheka abangazisusile, bezama ukuguqula zibe ngama-blondes noma ama-redheads! Isibonelo, ubisi omuncu lwaludingeka kakhulu - ngokusho kwezazi-mlando, lwaphenduka kalula umnikazi wemicu emnyama waba isicaba esimnyama.
Njengoba izinwele ezimhloshana zazihlotshaniswa ngalesosikhathi nobumsulwa nobumsulwa, ama-matroni amaRoma, hhayi ikakhulukazi ngokuziphatha, ayengagcini ubisi omuncu. Ijusi lelamusi lalisetshenziselwa nokukhanyisa izinwele. Lokhu kwenziwa ngale ndlela elandelayo: isigqoko esinobubanzi obukhulu sathathwa nesiqobelo esiqoshiwe lapho kwakudonswa khona izinwele bese zibekwa phezu kwamasimu wesigqoko. Ngemuva kwalokho zazimanzi kakhulu ngejusi kalamula futhi intombazane yahlala amahora amaningi ngaphansi kwelanga elishisayo, okwathi ngemuva kwalokho, uma ingazange iwele phansi yilanga, yahamba yatshengisa abangane bayo izinwele zombala wemisebe yelanga!)
Esikhundleni sejusi kalamula, kwesinye isikhathi isixazululo sensipho eyenziwe ngobisi lwembuzi nomlotha ngokhuni lwe-beech kwesinye isikhathi. Labo ababengafuni ukusebenzisa lezi zingxubevange ezinkulu bahlanganisa kancane izinwele zabo ngenhlanganisela yamafutha omnqumo newayini elimhlophe (le ndlela yokubheka, ngokubona kwami, nayo ilusizo!) Labo abebengafuni ukugcwala amahora amaningi elangeni basebenza kalula nje - bathenga izigqila ezimbalwa zase-Jalimane ezigqokile, nama-wigs zenziwa ezinweleni zabo.
Masingakhohlwa ngeGrisi yasendulo, ama-fashionistas ayo ayengekho ngemuva kwalawo amaRoma. Ngokuvamile, eGrisi yasendulo, izinwele zezinwele zazingenye yezethuthuke kakhulu. Ama-Blondes ayesemfashinini! Unkulunkulukazi u-Aphrodite, futhi, wayehlonishwa ngokuba ngumnikazi wokuthuthumela kwezinwele ezi-blond. Ngokuyinhloko, zonke izindlela zokufakwa umbala wokubala izinwele zivela eGrisi yakudala, okuwukuphela kwento abesifazane baseGrisi ababeyisebenzisela ukufaka imibala yezinwele kwakuyingxube yasendulo yase-Asiriya yesinamoni yaseChina kanye no-anyanisi-porea.
E-Gibhithe lasendulo, bekubhekwa njengabanikazi bezinwele ezimnyama nezinsundu, okwakuwubufakazi bokuba ngumnikazi, ubugqi kanye nobulukhuni bomnini wabo. I-Henna, i-basma ne-walnut amagobolondo yi-alpha ne-omega yama-fashionistas eGibhithe, eNdiya kanye nesiqhingi saseCrete, wonke la amadayi axutshwe nezinguqulo ezingenakucatshangwa, ngenxa yalokho abesifazane baseGibhithe ababefashini nabesifazane baseNdiya babekhanya ngezinwele ezimnyama zemithunzi emangalisayo. Yebo, ama-wigs, vele, ngaphandle kwabo. EGibhithe lasendulo, ama-wigs ayedingeka ngesikhathi semikhosi esemthethweni!
Kwakusetshenziswa iShoot. Ukuyixuba namafutha emifino, abesifazane babamboza izinwele zabo ngale nhlanganisela, bethola umbala omnyama.
Ama-Redheads. Ujinja uhlale ukuphathwa ngendlela emangazayo. ENdiya yasendulo, owesifazane onezinwele ezibomvu wayethathwa njengomthakathi oneso “elibi” eRoma lasendulo - owayemelela igazi elihle. Ukhafule konke ukubukeka, amanye ama-fashionistas aphikelela efuna izithunzi zezinwele zombala womlilo. I-henna yaqhamuka ePheresiya yasendulo, kanye ne-sage, isafroni, i-calendula, isinamoni, i-indigo, i-walnut kanye ne-chamomile. Into ethokozisa kakhulu ukuthi imfashini yezinwele ezibomvu yayamukelwa ngokuyinhloko ngabesifazane abanekhono elilula! Kamuva, izakhamizi zaseVenice zaqala ukucabanga obomvu cishe umbala okuwukuphela komhlaba emhlabeni futhi zalungisa izinwele zabo kuzo zonke izithunzi zalo ezingacatshangwa nezingacabangi! Ezimalini ezingenhla kufakiwe ijusi le-isanqante. Titi Vecellio emisebenzini yakhe wabamba unomphela ubuhle obomvu! Abesifazane base-Easter Island kuze kube namuhla badaya izinwele zabo zibomvu, bekucabanga njengokuhle futhi kunobuhle.
Futhi ngisho nangemva kwalokho, iNdlovukazi u-Elizabeth I yaphenduka ngokuphelele izimfanelo zobuhle bezwe ngombala wayo wemvelo wezinwele isikhumba esimnyama esimnyama esimnyama nesikhumba esimhlophe, ukubuyisa ubuhle baphakathi kwezikhathi zasendulo.
Bonke abesifazane balwa nezinwele ezimpunga ngaso sonke isikhathi. Futhi basebenzise izindlela zokupheka zalokhu, ezazikhanya zombili ngokungahambelani nokuvela kanye nokuvela kwangempela.
EGibhithe lasendulo, izinwele ezimpunga zachithwa ngosizo lwegazi! Ama-mummy asendulo aseGibhithe lasendulo (lapho izinwele zazigcinwa khona, namanje) asamangaza ososayensi ngombala ocebile futhi ongafakwanga izinwele zabo. EGibhithe futhi, kwasungulwa elinye ikhambi elimangalisayo lokulwa nezinwele ezimpunga: ingxube yamafutha enkunzi emnyama namaqanda angamagwababa.
Umlando Wodayi Wezinwele
Disemba 13, 2010, 00:00 | Katya Baranova
Umlando wezinwele zezinwele uvela emakhulwini eminyaka ngisho naseminyakeni eyikhulu. Kusukela ezikhathini zasendulo, abantu, befuna ukuba abahle futhi balandele imfashini eyinkimbinkimbi yemfashini, bafuna ukushintsha indlela yemvelo yezinto.
Ekuqaleni, waqala ukwazi ukushintshwa kombala wezinwele zakhe. Abantu abacebile kuphela ababenesikhundla esikhethekile emphakathini abavunyelwe ukudaya intshebe yabo, amadevu nezinwele. Ukukhulunywa ekuqaleni kwalokhu kuhlobene neSyria nePheresiya. Kamuva, imfashini yathuthela eRoma Lasendulo. Ngemuva kwalokho, ama-blondes nama-blondes abanjwa kakhulu, futhi, njengoba bezosho manje, i-perhydrol. Umphumela wokuxubha utholakala ngokumboza izinwele ngenhlanganisela ekhethekile, bese bezibeka elangeni. Futhi amadoda aseBabiloni aze afaka negolide emakhanda awo!
Udokotela waseRoma uGalen wasilethela izindlela zokupheka zedayi zakudala. Futhi akumangazi ukuthi izingoma zazingokwemvelo. Isibonelo, izinwele ezimpunga zanconywa ukuba zidwetshwe ngaphezulu ngomhluzi we-walnut.
NgeNkathi Ephakathi bekungasimangazi ukuthi ubizwe ngomthakathi, ikakhulukazi uma uzalwa ungowesifazane onezinwele ezibomvu, ngakho-ke amantombazane nabesifazane babeqikelela ngokukhethekile ukubukeka kwabo. Izindlela zokunakekela izinwele zaleso sikhathi azange zisifinyelele, kodwa ngiyasola ukuthi bebesasebenzisa ama-decoctions wemvelo.
Kepha i-Renaissance yabuyisa imfashini ye-Ancient Rome, base bekhumbula umlando wasendulo, lapho kuboniswa khona iresiphi yemikhiqizo yokunakekelwa kwezinwele. Hhayi-ke, udumo futhi, yiqiniso, baya kuma-blondes. Futhi umbala obomvu wangena emfashini ngenxa yephutha lohlobo. INdlovukazi u-Elizabeth nganginezinwele ezibomvu ezikhanyayo.
- I-Botticelli. Ntwasahlobo
Isikhathi seBaroque esinama-wigs silethe imibala ehlukene yezinwele zibe yimfashini, ukusuka ophuzi kuya kokuluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, futhi emuva kwesikhashana kwathathwa njengomfashini ku-powder omnyama ukufeza umphumela wezinwele ezimpunga.
UHenna noBasma. Angicabangi ukuthi enye yamantombazane izoba nombuzo wokuthi iyini nokuthi idlani nayo. Isibonelo, ngazama ukudaya izinwele zami nge-henna ebangeni le-9 lesikole. Kwavela umthunzi omuhle kakhulu wesifuba. Futhi ngaphezu kokukodwa angikwazanga ukuthola okunjengayo. Futhi udadewethu ngezikhathi ezithile uzama ukuphuma umbala obomvu, kodwa abuyele e-henna kaninginingi. Ngakho-ke lapha yayinamathe. Futhi ngesikhathi seRenaissance, abesifazane baxuba i-henna ngesibambiso se-walnut, i-chamomile, i-indigo nezinye izakhi zezitshalo. Kwavela izithunzi ezahlukahlukene.
Futhi Sienna Miller ube nesipiliyoni esibi nge-henna stain. Umlingisi uthole umbala omnandi, futhi ngokwamukelwa kwakhe, waphoqeleka ukuthi ayohlala ubusuku nemini amasonto ambalwa enesifihla se-tomato ketchup ezinweleni zakhe.
Kwavela nini amafomula wokuqala amakhemikhali aklanyelwe ukuguqula umbala wezinwele? Ngesikhathi se-craze ye-alchemy. Kepha lezi zinhlayiya zaziyinkimbinkimbi futhi zaziyinkimbinkimbi kangangokuba namuhla ungazibuka ngokumamatheka noma ngokwesaba (okusondele kuye).Futhi-ke, ngiyasola, ngenxa yokuntuleka kokungcono, basebenzisa lokho okwakukhona. Isibonelo, uma umelana ne-nitrate yesiliva ezinweleni zakho isikhathi esidingekayo, uthola umthunzi omuhle omnyama, futhi uma uwudlula - onsomi. Lo mphumela wagqugquzela ososayensi ukuthi bakhe ifomula yamakhemikhali ngopende.
Ngo-1907, usokhemisi waseFrance u-Eugene Schuller wasungula udayi oqukethe usawoti wethusi, owensimbi ne-sodium sulfate. Futhi lokhu bekungukuvulwa kwenkathi yodayi bamakhemikhali, namuhla abamba izintende emakethe zezinwele zedayi.
Ngo-1932, uLawrence Gelb wakwazi ukudala udayi kangangokuthi umbala wakhe wangena ezinweleni.
Futhi ngonyaka we-1950, kwenziwa ubuchwepheshe bokukhulisa izinwele ezinesiteji esisodwa ezikuvumela ukuthi ulisebenzise ekhaya.
Namuhla, odayi bezinwele bethulwa ebangeni elibanzi, kepha akunandaba ukuthi izinkampani zokukhangisa nabeluleki basikhuthaza kanjani, izinwele zabo zisabonakala buthaka, futhi amathuluzi alandelayo azobasekela.
- I-mask ye-Shampoo i-biioecological yezinwele ezibuthakathaka nezonakele ICapelli sfibrati lavante, I-Guam
- Shampoo ngezinwele ezikhathele nezingenamandla we-Sage ne-Argan, UMelvita
- Imaski yokunyakaza "Ukunakekelwa kwekherothi" izinwele nezinwele ezisuselwa odakeni loLwandle Olufile, Yebo kumakherothi
Ngabe uzizwa kanjani ngodayi bemvelo?
