Umbala wezinwele: izinzuzo eziningi kunokulimaza.
Ezinyangeni eziyisishiyagalombili, ngangenza ikholomu yedayi yezinwele masonto onke eLondon Sunday Times. Ngalesi sikhathi, ngangeluleka abesifazane abangamashumi amathathu nantathu nabesilisa abathathu. Umqondo wokudingida isihloko sokufakwa kombala wezinwele ephephandabeni weza kimi ngenxa yenani elikhulu lemibuzo engangiyibuza iminyaka eminingi.
Ukwesaba okuningi kwakuhlotshaniswa neqiniso lokuthi ukudaya kufaka isandla ekulahlekelweni izinwele, noma ukomeni kwazo, noma kungazenza zibe brittle, noma kuthinte kabi isikhumba. Ngokuvamile, kunombono owamukelwa ngokujwayelekile wokuthi ukuqina isikhathi eside kubangela imiphumela emibi ezinwele nasosweni. Lokhu akulona iqiniso ngokuphelele.
Ngingasho ukuthi ukufaka imibala kwezinwele kunedumela elibi elingafanele. Ngihlangane mathupha neklayenti ngalinye ngaphambi nangemva kokudaya futhi ngingasho ukuthi akekho owakhuphula ukulahleka kwezinwele. Akekho owakhononda ngokoma noma brittleness ukuthi kwavela (Nggcizelela ukuthi bonke balandela ngokuqinile imiyalo yabakhiqizi futhi basebenzise umoya ophathelene nekhithi). Ezimweni eziningi, isimo sezinwele sathuthuka.
Okungimangaze kakhulu ukuthi isimo sesikhumba salabo ababene-dandruff kanye / noma ukulunywa kwawo kwaba ngcono. Kuyiqiniso, lokhu kwenziwa ngenxa yokubonga kwama-antiseptic wezakhiwo zokubala imibala, ukuthamba keratolytic (ukuthambisa nokususa dandruff) umphumela kanye nokugeza kahle kwesikhumba okuhambisana nokufaka amabala. Kodwa-ke, angikukhuthaze ukuba usebenzise ukudaya ukuze uhlanze isikhumba sakho noma usize izinwele zakho. Ukudaya izinwele ngezindlela zesimanje (ikakhulukazi esimweni sokufakwa umbala wezinwele ezimpunga) kuzosiza ekutholeni ukuzethemba kwengqondo, uzizwe ukuvuselelwa nokubaluleka kwakho. Cishe i-70% yabesifazane kanye ne-12% yabesilisa kwesinye isikhathi ezimpilweni zabo abazidaya izinwele zabo. Kwabesilisa, lesi sibalo singaphezulu kakhulu, ngoba abaningi babo bakwenza ngasese futhi abakaze basivume.
Ukugcina kungaba yingozi kuphela uma ungalandeli umyalo wokusebenzisa umuthi. Isibonelo, kufanele wenze izivivinyo zokubekezelela kokuqala futhi wenze izindlela zokulungiselela ezinconywe ngumenzi.
Izindlela zokubeka
Angizenqabeli noma yiziphi izindlela zokufaka ibala. Eqinisweni, okuphambene nalokhu kuyiqiniso: umphumela wengqondo wokushintshwa kombala wezinwele udlula noma yimuphi umonakalo ongaba khona. Kunezindlela eziningi zokudaya izinwele zakho, futhi ukukhetha imibala kukhulu kakhulu. Ukwenza amafomula okuthuthukisiwe kukuvumela ukuthi uthole ama-shades amahle, futhi ukuphepha kwamapende kubhekwe njalo. Ngifuna ngokukhethekile ukuqaphela ukuthi umphumela omuhle kakhulu utholakala uma usebenzisa usizo lochwepheshe wokufaka imibala (noma, njengoba sekuyisiko lakithi ukusho, umuntu onombala).
Idayi yemvelo
IHenna, chamomile, i-indigo namanye amakhambi kuye kwaziwa esintwini izinkulungwane eziningi zeminyaka. Ngesikhathi sokungcwatshwa kwamapharao, izinwele zawo zazifakwa ngombala omnyama ukuze abukeke emncane. AbaseRoma basebenzise izinto zokupheka ezenziwe ngamapulangwe nezinto ezithile ezinsipho ezinjengokusuka kwezitshalo. Ama-walnuts abilisiwe futhi anqunyiwe, umusi, amaqanda ant, waashisa, amajikijolo ahlukahlukene nezinsalela zezilwane ezibolile - konke lokhu bekusetshenziselwa ukufihla izinwele ezimpunga noma ukuhambisana nemfashini. Uma sikhuluma ngobunjalo besimanje, khona-ke eminyakeni embalwa edlule kwakukhona i-craze ye-henna - hhayi nje njengedayi, kodwa futhi njenge-ejenti yokwelapha. Lokhu, ngokweqiniso, akuyona ipanacea, futhi njengopende, kumane kungenye yabaningi. UHenna unikeza umthunzi ongeyona eyemvelo obomvu, futhi ukwabiwa kombala kusuka ezimpandeni kuya emaphethelweni wezinwele kungalingani. Umbala uphela ngokushesha, ngakho-ke indawo edinga ukuphindwa okuningi. Ngaphezu kwalokho, elangeni, isithunzi singaphenduka i-orenji, kuthi lapho sigaqekile - ujinja. I-Chamomile inikeza nokusatshalaliswa kombala okungalingani, kepha ngenxa yokuqukethwe kwe-azulene, kunganciphisa ukumiswa futhi kuthambe isikhumba.
Ama-shampoos abhalwe phansi (umbala wesikhashana)
Lolu hlobo lwamabala luthinta kuphela izinwele zezinwele. Upende usetshenziswa ngemuva kwe-shampoo ngayinye bese uqhubeka kuze kube yilapho ugeza olandelayo. Okubi kakhulu ngalezi zipende yisidingo sokuzisebenzisa ngemuva kokugeza ngakunye, okuqeda amandla okugeza izinwele njalo.
Kufeupende oqinile
Lezi zipende zihlala isikhathi eside - ukusebenza kwazo kuthatha izinyanga eziyisithupha. Zingena ku-cuticle yezinwele, ezibavikela ekufakweni. Umbala wamadayi anjalo usondelene nemithunzi yemvelo kunombala wodayi, futhi kulula ukuwusebenzisa. Ngokungafani nokupenda okuhlala isikhathi eside (okuhlala njalo), kufakwa ezinweleni ezihlanjiwe ezimanzi, bese kuthi ngokweqile kuhlanjwe. Ububi babo ukuthi i-discolor uma igeza izinwele zabo ngisho nasemoyeni ngakho-ke idinga ukusetshenziswa njalo. Amaphethelo wezinwele avame ukuba mnyama ngaphezu kwezimpande, ngoba upende okuningi uthola kuwo, nokubukeka okungokwemvelo kwezinwele kudinga okuphambene: iziphetho kufanele zibe lula kunezimpande ngenxa yokuvezwa komoya njalo elangeni. Ngenxa yalokho, umphumela ungaba kude kakhulu nemvelo.
Kwezinye izingxenye zamadayi, ukuzwela okukhulayo kungavela, ngakho-ke kuhlale kuchazwa ukuthi kwenziwe isivivinyo sokuqala “sokubumbana” ngokuya ngemiyalo enamathiselwe. Lolu hlobo lokufaka imibala lusetshenziswa ikakhulukazi ekhaya. Ukuhlolwa kumele kwenziwe ngaphambi kokusebenza ngakunye kwepende (yize abaningi becabanga ukuthi uma benze lolu vivinyo ngasikhathi sinye, bangaqhubeka nokusebenzisa lo pende ngaphandle kokuphinda). Ngeshwa, ngaphandle kwesizathu esibonakalayo, ukungezwani komzimba kungenzeka phakathi kwamabala. Ukucindezela, ushintsho ekudleni, ukusetshenziswa kwezidakamizwa, imvelo - zonke lezi zinto zandisa ubungozi bokuzwela.
Imidwebo engapheli
Lezi zipende zaziwa ngokuthi i-oxidizing, ngoba ngaphambi kokufaka ibala udinga ukuxuba i-oxidant kanye nekhambi le-ammonia nodayi uqobo. Ukwakheka kwamadayi okungapheli kuyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu, futhi abakhiqizi benza imizamo eminingi yokuthola umphumela osheshayo futhi banciphise ukwephulwa emandleni nasebusweni bezinwele. Omunye wemithetho eyinhloko lapho udala upende ukuphepha kokusetshenziswa kwayo.
Futhi, amadayi alolu hlobo ukuthi asetshenziswa kancane futhi ngakho-ke alimaza izinwele ezincane. Ngokuqondene nemiphumela elimazayo yokupenda kwalolu hlobo emzimbeni, akukho noyedwa ocwaningweni oluningi olukhombisile ukulimala okunjalo. Ngaphezu kwalokho, umuntu akakwazi ukungawunaki umphumela omkhulu omuhle ongokwengqondo unombala omusha wezinwele zakhe kumuntu.
I-Bleaching nezinwele ezikhanyayo
Umphumela oxidizing walezi zinqubo discolor pigment emgodleni wezinwele, okwenza izinwele zikhanye. Imvamisa, njengakuqala, i-hydrogen peroxide isebenza njenge-bleaching agent. Kokubili lokhu namanye ama-ejenti wokuxubha kunomthelela olimazayo kumaprotheni ezinwele, okwenza izinwele zome, ziqhume futhi zingabonakali. Izinwele ziba namandla futhi, zibe sengozini yemiphumela yelanga, amanzi, umoya, nezinye izinqubo zamakhemikhali (ngokwesibonelo, lapho zijika noma ziqondisa izinwele). Ukudilizwa kuthambisa isikhumba, kwenza buthakathaka izibopho phakathi kwama-keratinocyte, ngakho-ke kubalulekile ukuthi ungawusizi kakhulu isikhumba lapho ususa umhlinzeki wokuxubha, ngaphandle kwalokho isikhumba sizokonakala ngamakhemikhali.
Uma ama-stabilizer engasetshenziswa, ama-oxidizing agents abola ngokushesha. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ukuphuma kwegazi kwenzeka kancane, futhi ukusheshisa inqubo, ama-oxidizing agents kumele ahlanganiswe nezisombululo ze-alkaline ngokushesha ngaphambi kokuzisebenzisa. Ngokuvamile, i-ammonia isetshenziswa njengesixazululo. Ngokwehlukana, i-hydrogen peroxide kanye ne-ammonia azishintshashintshi, ngakho-ke kunzima ukulandela umkhondo ukuze ngamunye wazo ungapheli esizeni esivele sikhona. Kungakho kusetshenziselwa ama-bleaching agents ngendlela yama-okhilimu we-emulsion ngamafutha ne-waxes, futhi i-ammonia ingezwa ngaphambi kokufaka udayi wezinwele.
Imvamisa, i-ejenti yokopha ayidingi ukuhlolwa kokuzwa kokuqala. Akuvamile ukusetshenziswa zodwa, ngoba azikuvumeli ukuthi uthole amathunzi wemvelo. Lapho isetshenziswa, izinwele ziba njengotshani, futhi ukungezwa kwama-ejenti ahlukahlukene wokufaka imibala kuyadingeka ukuze izinwele zithole umthunzi oyifunayo.
Kuzo zonke izindlela ezaziwayo zokudaya, ukufaka i-bleaching kungenzeka kube yingozi kakhulu ngokulimala kwezinwele, ngakho-ke kufanele kunikezwe ochwepheshe. Uma wenza lokhu ngokwakho, qaphela kakhulu futhi ufunde ngokucophelela imiyalo.
Ukukhanyisa izinwele imicu, ukugqamisa nokufaka isiliva
Lezi zinqubo ziyafana: izindawo ezincane ziyahlakazwa kungaba nge-cap enezimbobo ezincane lapho kudonswa khona izindwani ezincane zezinwele, noma ngokuhlukanisa ngokucophelela imicu bese kufakwa ngopende kubo nge-foil. Le ndlela iyindlela ephumelela kakhulu yokugunda izinwele ezimpunga noma ukudala umphumela wezinwele ezishiswe yilanga. Ingxenye kuphela yezinwele ezchithulwayo futhi ngenxa yokuxuba, umbala uhlala isikhathi eside. Lokhu kukuvumela ukuthi uphinde le nqubo kancane, okwenza enye yezindlela eziphephe kakhulu zokufaka. Kodwa-ke, ukusebenzisa ukwakheka kwezintambo ezihlanganisiwe kudala izinkinga ngenxa yomonakalo owengeziwe we-cuticle wezinwele.
Ukunakekelwa kwezinwele ezinemibala
Inqubo yokudaya izinwele ku-salon ifaka ukusetshenziswa kwezakhi zokubuyiselwa. Uma udaya izinwele zakho ekhaya, uzothola nomenzeli wokunciphisa ophumelelayo ephaketheni. Le ngxenye ihlala iyadingeka.
Noma yiziphi izinwele ezidayiwe ziba sengozini Izinga lomonakalo lincike ekutheni uwushintshe kangaki umbala. Ushintsho oluyingozi kakhulu ukusuka ebumnyameni kuye kokukhanya, ngoba i-ejenti yokufaka imibala (i-bleaching) kufanele ibe namandla. Noma iyiphi inqubo yamakhemikhali inciphisa ukuqina kwezinwele futhi inyuse ukuqina kwabo. Ngaphezu kwe-ejenti yokunciphisa oyisebenzisayo masinyane ngemuva kokudaya, sebenzisa isibandisi sokuthambisa izinsuku ezimbalwa ngaphambi kokudaya nangemva kwayo ngaphambi kokugeza izinwele zakho. Izinqubo ezifanayo kufanele zenziwe nge-discoloration.
Kubaluleke kakhulu ukusebenzisa ama-conditioners ngemuva kwe-shampoo ngayinye, ngoba lokhu kusiza ukwembula izinwele futhi kunondle ama-cuticles wezinwele alinyazwa izixazululo ze-alkaline. Kufanele ukhethe ama-moisturizer (ngokwesibonelo, ngamafutha emvelo) ukuze izinwele ezondile zingathambile futhi zingabi nalutho. Izinwele zanoma yiluphi uhlobo zingahlanganiswa kahle futhi zifakwe isitayela kusetshenziswa imikhiqizo yesitayela.
Kufanele futhi ugweme ukuhlanganiswa kwezinwele okungazelelwe, ukomiswa okuqinile ngethawula, ukomiswa isikhathi eside kakhulu ngombheki wezinwele - ikakhulukazi okushisayo, ukudonsa izinwele okungazelelwe, njll.
Ukuqondisa
Le yinqubo elula lapho esikhundleni sokugunda izinwele eziqondile, izinwele ze-wavy ziqondile: isixazululo sisetshenziswa ezimpandeni, izinwele zidonswa kancane kancane ngesiga esikhethekile, kuthi lapho isilinganiselo esifunekayo sokuqonda sitholakale, kusetshenziswe i-fixative. Imvamisa, le nqubo isetshenziselwa izinwele ezimnyama, futhi uma ungakwenzi lokhu ngokucophelela nangokucophelela, ungazilimaza izinwele zakho. Ukuqondisa izinwele kudingeka kaningi kunokugwetywa - ngemuva kwamaviki ayisithupha kuya kwayisishiyagalombili. Ngakho-ke, kunobungozi obukhulu bokuphoqelela umphumela wokwelashwa okusha okudala.
Kungcono ukuqondisa izinwele ku-salon lapho ochwepheshe bezolawula inqubo.
Khumbula ukuthi izinto ezibonakala zingabalulekile zingakhuphula ijubane lokuphendula kwamakhemikhali: ngokwesibonelo, ukwanda kwezinga lokushisa egumbini ngenxa yesimo sezulu esishisayo noma izinhlelo zokushisa. Yingakho ukulawulwa kwenqubo ngokucophelela kubalulekile. Lesi ngesinye isizathu sokwenza lokhu nochwepheshe.
Ngakho-ke, ochwepheshe abasivimbi ekudambiseni izinwele nasekugobeni izinwele, ezingaba ukwesekwa okukhulu kokuziphatha kwethu okuhle. Zibonisa kuphela izikhathi eziyingozi futhi zizama ukusixwayisa ngokulimala kabuhlungu okuhambisana nokushintshwa kombala nezinwele ngokubanzi.
Uma ungazihlambi izinwele zakho izinsuku ezimbili kuya kwezintathu ngezinwele ezikhuphukile ezinamafutha, i-sebum ibola ngaphansi kwethonya lokukhanya nomoya futhi yakha imikhiqizo enobuthi, umphumela okuthi lapho izingcezu zezinwele zingathandeki kakhulu. Ngakho-ke, umuntu ngamunye kufanele azenzele umbuso olungile wokunakekelwa kwenhlanzeko, kucatshangelwa izinhlaka zekhanda elibukeka kahle nokufakwa izinwele.
Ukusongela kuqala akuvame ukuholela ezinkingeni ezinkulu. Kodwa-ke, ukuphindaphinda kungadala umonakalo omkhulu. Amaphethelo wezinwele angavikeleka kangcono ngokuwasabalalisa ngamafutha, ngokwesibonelo ibhotela elingavinjwanga, ngaphambi kokusebenzisa i-curling complement.
Ngendlela ethi "izimpande curl", kuphela izimpande noma izingxenye zezinwele ezingafakwanga ezisontekile ezigoqekile. Kodwa-ke, le yinqubo ebuhlungu kunalokho, ngoba kunzima ukukugwema ukuvezwa izinwele nezinwele ezigoqekile ngaphambilini.
Kuyadingeka ukunakekela izinwele zakho usebenzisa ama-conditioners. Kubalulekile kakhulu ukuphatha izinwele zakho nge-conditioner kabili ngesonto amasonto amabili ngaphambi kokusebenzisa noma iyiphi inqubo.
Ungalokothi ugobe noma uqonde izinwele ngosuku lokudaya. Kuhle ukulinda isonto, okokuqala wenze i-curl bese ubala. Ukuze uthole umphumela ongcono phakathi kokujikijela nokudaya, phatha izinwele zakho nge-conditioner.
Vikela ukugoqeka uma isikhumba sibuhlungu noma silimele. Uma isikhumba sikhanyiswa noma sicasulwe ngemuva kokulanywa, sebenzisa isixazululo sobisi olubandayo namanzi ngokulingana okulinganayo. Le khambi lisiza ukuthambisa futhi lithambise isikhumba. Uma lokhu kungasizi, thintana nodokotela wamazinyo.
Ukufakwa izinwele izinwele nokuqina
UDenis Ognev, umqambi
Namuhla, ukushukuma akusathandwa njengangaphambili. Izinwele ezi-Curly, ezifashisayo ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yama-1970, manje sezithathwa ngokuthi "ikhulu lokugcina." Ngokusobala, isizathu ukuvela emakethe yemikhiqizo entsha yokwenza izinwele, isitayela. Eminyakeni engu-10 eyedlule, sekwenzekile ukuthi kwakheke izingoma ezintsha eziqinisa isisekelo sezinwele futhi sizenze zikhulu. Enye yezinhloso eziphambili ezilandelwayo lapho kugxotshwa owesimame ngaphezulu kwamashumi amane ukwenza izinguquko ezisesimweni sobudala ngokunika i-hair wavy kanye ne-curly, ukukhulisa ubukhulu bezinwele ukuze izinwele zibukeke ziqinile.
Isisekelo esiyisisekelo esisetshenziselwa izinwele ezigobolayo yi-elasticity. Lapho izinwele zimanzi, ziyatatazela futhi ziyajuluka, kuze kuthi lapho ukhubazeka - izibopho ze-disulfide zibhujiswe. Lapho izinwele zoma, ibuyela esimweni sayo sokuqala. Uma izinwele zisontekile kuze kube lapho zoma, kuzothatha isimo esikuhlaziyile, okungukuthi, siba se-wavy noma sisonteke. Ukushisa kusheshisa le nqubo. Ukwakheka kwezinwele kuzohlala kunjalo kuze kube yilapho zimanzi noma zimanzi. Lapho uphonsa nge-unomphela, kusetshenziswa amakhemikhali esikhundleni samanzi. Lokhu kwenziwa okokuqala ngokufudumeza ama-alkaline reagents, bese kuthi ngo-1940 kwahlongozwa isiphelisi “esibandayo,” lapho izinwele sanyathelwa ngesisombululo esikhethekile, inxeba (usayizi we-curl owancike ngosayizi we-curler), wagcinwa isikhashana futhi wabe “elungisiwe” esebenzisa ukwakheka kokungafani. .
Isici esibonakalayo sale ndlela ukufinyeleleka nokusebenziseka kalula.Wafinyelela esiphethweni sokuthandwa lapho kuvela ukuthi "unomphela ukusetshenziswa ekhaya" emakethe, okuvumela noma ngubani ukuthi enze inqubo yonke ekhaya.
Imakethe yaphakade yindlu incane kakhulu, njengoba okuthandwa kakhulu kusanikezwa ochwepheshe ku-salon. Ngenxa yokusetshenziswa kwezixazululo ze-alkaline kakhulu, kungenzeka ukuthi kube nomonakalo omkhulu ezinweleni, uma kungenziwa ngokucophelela. Imvamisa, i-ammonium thioglycolate isetshenziswa njengesixazululo se-alkaline "sokukhulula" izibopho ze-disulfide, kuthi i-hydrogen peroxide isetshenziswe njenge-ejenti ye-oxidizing ukulungisa izinwele.
Isikhumba sisebenza kuma-ejenti amakhemikhali ngendlela efanayo, ngakho-ke singaba nozwela futhi sinikeze imiphumela ebuhlungu ngemuva kokugeza ukwakheka kwe-curling.
Ngokusebenzisa okufanele kwe-perm, ukushabalaliswa kwezinwele kungancishiswa. Okwamanje, uma ushiya isixazululo ezinweleni isikhathi eside kakhulu, sinikeze umoya uvalwe kakhulu noma ungasebenzisi ngobuchule izixazululo zokunciphisa amandla, kungavela izinkinga.
